From Uniqlo to Zara, clothing brands try to win over Gen Z with a needle
and thread
[August 10, 2026] By
ANNE D'INNOCENZIO
NEW YORK (AP) — Encouraging customers to mend worn clothes instead of
buying new ones might seem like a self-defeating sales strategy. But
in-store repairs and sewing workshops are becoming essential retail
services for clothing brands as they try to appeal to young consumers
who want to save money and the planet.
While luxury fashion houses and select specialty retailers like
Patagonia and L.L. Bean have offered product repairs for decades, the
concept has caught on. Jeans giant Levi Strauss & Co., casual wear chain
Uniqlo and budget retailer Primark are a few of the apparel companies
hoping to win over Generation Z shoppers with a needle and thread.
Levi's created a handstitching course for high school students after
determining that many members of Gen Z lacked the sewing skills to match
their interest in thrift store shopping and sustainability. Employees
spend 90 minutes instructing teenagers on four tasks: sewing on a
button, hemming, patching a hole and fixing a tear.
The Wear Longer program, which the San Francisco-based company is
expanding across the U.S., builds on the repair and customization
services Levi's offers at hundreds of stores worldwide.
“We think it’s important to empower the people who buy our clothes with
the skill sets to maintain them, to get them to that second life,” Paul
Dillinger, Levi's head of global design innovation, said.
Detroit resident Chloe Halprin, 25, is the kind of consumer retailers
hope to attract with a “fix it, don’t ditch it” message.
In high school, Halprin shopped at inexpensive, trendy stores. Fixing a
big rip felt beyond her limited sewing ability. If she damaged a top or
skirt from Forever 21, “I might just throw it away."
These days, Halprin buys most of her clothes secondhand. She recently
learned to hem with a sewing machine and hopes to tackle projects like
turning a skirt into a shirt.

“I try to be conscientious of my carbon footprint,” Halprin, a nonprofit
grant writer, said. "I really don’t like waste. I’m trying to save money
as well.”
Mending is a tiny part of cutting the world's mountains of textile
waste
The evolution of mending from an economic necessity and traditional
craft to a method for cultivating customers didn't happen overnight. The
fashion industry as a whole has come under intensifying pressure to
reduce its contributions to environmental pollution and climate change.
Textile waste — which includes manufacturing remnants, unwanted clothes
and linens, and unsold products — is one of the industry's most pressing
challenges. Each year, the world generates fabric waste at a rate
equivalent to a garbage truck's worth getting dumped or incinerated
every second, the United Nations Environment Program estimates.
Researchers broadly agree that repairing and reselling clothes can
reduce a garment’s environmental impact, especially if it delays or
replaces a new purchase. But many caution the practices remain too
limited to offset continued growth in clothing production and
consumption.
Clothing production roughly doubled between 2000 and 2015, while the
average number of wearings per garment declined by about 36%, according
to figures compiled by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. The
sustainability nonprofit estimated that less than 1% of discarded
clothing material got recycled into new apparel.
Enter Generation Z, the cohort born between 1997 and 2012. It's the
generation that grew up with fast fashion and e-commerce, then had
school years and young adulthoods shaped by the coronavirus pandemic and
post-pandemic inflation.
Whether due to limited budgets or a rejection of materialism, Gen Z has
helped the preowned clothing market grow much faster than retail apparel
sales in the U.S., independent market intelligence firm GlobalData
estimated in a report with resale platform ThredUp.
For companies that make new clothes, mending programs and classes
address “some deeper consumer needs and consumer behaviors at the
moment," GlobalData retail analyst Neil Saunders said.
“It puts a halo on the brand,” he said.
Skeptics say the environmental impact of retailer repairs is limited
The hands-on response from mass-market retailers, especially
fast-fashion chains like Primark, Zara and H&M, has generated interest
as well as skepticism.

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Levi’s employee Ella Fassler Clausen teaches during a sewing
workshop at a Levi's retail store in downtown San Francisco,
Wednesday, July 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Terry Chea)
 Zara, which has its headquarters in
Spain, launched a digital platform in 2022 for customers to resell
their used pieces and to request basic alterations and repairs. The
program is available in 17 of the nearly 100 countries where the
trend-driven retailer operates.
Ireland-based Primark has focused more on customer education. The
value-focused retailer hosts free “Love It For Longer” events where
customers are taught skills like replacing zippers and buttons.
“Learning how to repair and care for clothing is probably one of the
most simplest but absolutely totally effective ways that we can
reduce waste and also extend the lifetime of whatever we buy,” Vicki
Swain, Primark’s product longevity & partnership lead, said.
The company has held the workshops — more than 730 altogether — in
nine of the 17 countries where Primark has stores, including the
U.S. Primark also tested in-store repairs at three U.K. locations
this year.
Swain argues that affordable clothes can be just as durable and
repair-worthy as more expensive ones. Half the items Primark sells
annually are basics like socks, underwear, T-shirts, and jeans, she
said.
“There is nothing throw away about our products,” Swain said.
Uniqlo, which focuses on timeless wardrobe staples, offers a range
of aftercare services, including repairs, decorative sashiko
mending, embroidery and creative restyling.
Available in 75 of the Japanese mass-market retailer’s roughly 2,500
stores worldwide, the services are promoted as a national extension
of the product life cycle. Providing them also strengthens Uniqlo’s
connection with customers, said Jean-Emmanuel Shein, director of
global corporate responsibility at Uniqlo USA.
Kate Fletcher, a professor of sustainability, design and fashion
systems at Manchester Metropolitan University in England, said she
thinks the repair initiatives of popular retailers are well-meaning,
but she doubts they will have much environmental impact.
“The fashion sector’s primary source of impact is due to the
overproduction of pieces and growing volumes of garments created,”
Fletcher said. “Repairing a garment in store happens in addition to
these growing production volumes, not instead of them.”
Companies want tax incentives to make repairs and secondhand
sales more profitable
The question facing the fashion industry is whether repairs can
evolve from niche service to commercially viable.
Sweden's H&M Group, which has more than 4,000 stores in over 80
countries, has been unusually candid about one of the biggest
obstacles: the economics. The company has argued that repair and
resale are desirable goals, but manufacturing new garments costs
businesses less than keeping existing ones in use.

H&M experimented with mending and redesign studios in several
European flagship stores over the past decade. The company also is
majority owner of a secondhand clothing platform called Sellpy.
In May, H&M joined Primark, ThredUp and dozens of other fashion and
textile businesses in signing a statement that urged governments in
North America and the European Union to adopt tax policies that
would make repairing and reselling clothes profitable.
Making mending work in retail is challenging because it's labor
intensive and must be priced low enough to entice customers,
Saunders, of GlobalData, said. Signals from consumers also are
mixed, he said.
“I think younger shoppers still shop fast fashion because even
though it goes against some of their principles, it is one of the
most accessible parts of the market," Saunders said. "But what
they’re doing as well, though, is they’re buying into alternative
channels like resale. And they’re having things repaired.”
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